A Real (Italian) Mans Ragout(ragout =>ragł)
Ragł alla Bolognese
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
½ pound pancetta, finely chopped
1 pound lean ground beef
1 pound ground pork butt
1 tablespoon tomato paste
8 cups homemade or low-sodium beef broth
2 ½ cups whole milk
5 tablespoons butter
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
Cooked tagliatelle or pappardelle.
Yield: 6 servings.
This recipe has been kitchen tested.
We think this may make an excellent filing for Paupiettes de Boeuf (Braised Stuffed Beef Rolls) ą la Julia Child. Paupiettes
are thin slices of beef wrapped around a filling, and braised in wine and stock with herbs and aromatic vegetables. For 18 paupiettes, serving 6 people, use 2 1/2 lbs. lean beef (top round or chuck) cut into 18 cross-grain slices, 1/4 inch thick and about 3 inches in diameter.
If your heritage leans more toward southern Italy, you may view the above, northern derivative as heresy. Primarily due to availability of ingredients, a southern-style ragł is a tomato sauce with a hint of beef, whereas the northern-style is a meat sauce with a touch of tomato. At any rate, to avoid slighting anyone, the following is a southern-style ragł.
Note that the northern-style sauce traditionally is served with tagliatelle whereas southern-style is served typically over ziti or penne.
Can anyone explain those traditional choices to this Italian-disabled recipe hound? As far as I can tell, pasta is pasta, i.e. the basic ingredients are similar so would not cause this difference. Does the shape depend on how the sauce "clings?"
Ragł all Napoletana
½cup pine nuts, coarsely chopped
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
RAGŁ The above recipes were adapted from an article in the New York Times, Wednesday, May 19, 1999. Ragł all Napoletana was created by New Yorker, Sandro Manzo, who owns an art gallery in Rome and is an agent for Italian artists. Ragł alla Bolognese was created by Alex Goren, a financial consultant in New York City. Both emigrated from Italy, not surprisingly, Mr. Manzo from an area south of Naples and Mr. Goren, from the area near Bologna.
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